Cutting and pruning first. Reach for hand pruners on stems up to about ¾″, loppers for thicker branches with two-hand leverage, hedge shears for shaping shrubs, and a pruning hand saw when a branch is too big to cut cleanly any other way. Bypass blades give the cleanest cut on live growth; anvil blades suit dry, dead wood.
Then the irrigation-specific tools. PVC cutters make clean, square, burr-free cuts so slip joints seat fully; spray-head and rotor tools pull up and adjust heads without digging; and hand shovels and rakes handle the dig and the cleanup. Quality steel holds an edge and resists rust — worth it on tools that earn their keep every day.
Bypass pruners cut like scissors for a clean cut on live stems; anvil pruners crush against a flat edge and are better for dry, dead wood. For most pruning of living plants, choose bypass.
A ratchet or scissor PVC cutter gives a clean, square cut with no burrs or shavings inside the pipe — important so solvent-weld joints seat fully. A fine-tooth saw works too, but deburr the cut before gluing.
Match the tool to the branch diameter: hand pruners up to about ¾″, loppers for roughly 1–2″ with extra leverage, and a pruning saw beyond that.
Wipe blades clean and dry after use, keep them sharp, and add a drop of oil at the pivot. Clean, sharp blades cut with less effort and leave healthier cuts on plants.