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How to Build a Drip Zone
Start at the water source with a control zone — a valve paired with a filter and a pressure regulator. Drip runs at low pressure (typically 25–40 PSI), so a pressure regulator steps mains pressure down while the filter keeps grit out of the emitters.
Run inline drip tubing along evenly spaced rows and hedges; use blank dripline with point-source emitters to water individual plants and containers. Match emitter flow to the plant — roughly 1 GPH for small plants, 2 GPH for shrubs — and keep each lateral within the tubing’s rated maximum run so the last emitter gets the same water as the first. On slopes, choose pressure-compensating emitters to hold output even from top to bottom.
Drip Irrigation FAQ
What is a drip control zone kit?
A control zone kit packages the parts that condition water for drip at one point: a valve to switch the zone on, a filter to keep grit out of the emitters, and a pressure regulator to drop mains pressure to a drip-safe level.
What pressure should a drip system run at?
Most drip emitters and dripline are rated for low pressure — commonly 25 to 40 PSI. House pressure is much higher, so a pressure regulator is required to protect the fittings and keep flow even across the zone.
How long can a run of drip tubing be?
Every dripline has a maximum run length set by its emitter spacing and flow rate; staying within it keeps the last emitter delivering the same water as the first. Pressure-compensating tubing holds output steady over longer runs and on slopes.
Should I use inline tubing or individual emitters?
Use inline drip tubing where plants sit in evenly spaced rows or hedges — the emitters are built in at a set spacing. Use blank dripline with individual emitters to water spaced-out plants, trees, and containers where you place each one by hand.
Can I put a drip system on a timer?
Yes. A drip controller or hose-end timer opens the zone on a set schedule, so the system waters on its own — early-morning runs lose the least water to evaporation.
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