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Cutting and pruning first. Reach for hand pruners on stems up to about ¾″, loppers for thicker branches with two-hand leverage, hedge shears for shaping shrubs, and a pruning hand saw when a branch is too big to cut cleanly any other way. Bypass blades give the cleanest cut on live growth; anvil blades suit dry, dead wood.
Then the irrigation-specific tools. PVC cutters make clean, square, burr-free cuts so slip joints seat fully; spray-head and rotor tools pull up and adjust heads without digging; and hand shovels and rakes handle the dig and the cleanup. Quality steel holds an edge and resists rust. It is worth it on tools that earn their keep every day.
Bypass pruners cut like scissors for a clean cut on live stems; anvil pruners crush against a flat edge and are better for dry, dead wood. For most pruning of living plants, choose bypass.
A ratchet or scissor PVC cutter gives a clean, square cut with no burrs or shavings inside the pipe. That matters so solvent-weld joints seat fully. A fine-tooth saw works too, but deburr the cut before gluing.
Match the tool to the branch diameter: hand pruners up to about ¾″, loppers for roughly 1–2″ with extra leverage, and a pruning saw beyond that.
Wipe blades clean and dry after use, keep them sharp, and add a drop of oil at the pivot. Clean, sharp blades cut with less effort and leave healthier cuts on plants.