Match each fixture to the job, then size the power to match. Total your fixture wattage and pick a transformer rated about 25% higher so you can expand later. On long runs, voltage drop dims the far fixtures — use a multi-tap transformer (12/13/14/15V) and step up to 12-gauge wire to keep brightness even end to end.
Choose brass or quality composite housings that stand up to irrigation, foot traffic, and weather. We carry pro lines including FX Luminaire and Brilliance.

Brilliance MR16-4-ECO-2700-30

Brilliance MR16-7-2700-30

VistaPro MT-300

VistaPro ES-150

VistaPro PACK-2-B

VistaPro PR-4704-GT-NL

Brilliance MR16-5-SILVER-GREEN-60

Brilliance MR16-7-2700-60

Brilliance BRI-G4-ECO-2-3000

Brilliance MR16-5-2700-60

Brilliance MR16-5-2700-30

Brilliance SURF-MT-M-3000-BR-BLK

Brilliance MR11-2-2700-15

Brilliance MR16-4-ECO-2700-60

VistaPro PACK-1-DZ

VistaPro FPC-150

VistaPro PR-2265-BSO-2.5-W-T3

VistaPro GR-2207-DZ-NL

VistaPro GW-5260-B-4.5-W-36

VistaPro SL-4243-DZ-2.5-W-T3
Total the wattage of every fixture and keep it around 80% of the transformer’s rating, leaving headroom to add later. LED fixtures draw far less than halogen, so one transformer powers many more of them.
Use 12- or 14-gauge low-voltage wire. Step up to 12-gauge on long or heavily loaded runs to limit voltage drop, which dims the fixtures farthest from the transformer.
Yes. A timer or photocell switches the system on at dusk and off on a set schedule, so the lights run themselves dusk to dawn.
LED draws a fraction of the wattage, runs cooler, and lasts far longer — letting one transformer power more fixtures with less wire load. Most professional installations are now LED.
Low-voltage wire is safe at shallow depth — commonly about 6 inches, enough to protect it from spades and foot traffic. Unlike line-voltage wiring, it does not require conduit.